In the Pacific Northwest, we’re spoiled with things like mountains, rain that doubles as a personality trait, and the magical San Juan Islands, a cluster of ridiculously charming islands tucked between Washington State and Victoria BC. These islands are what you get when Mother Nature and Pinterest collaborate. They’ve got it all: beaches, lakes, hikes, art, good food, small-town vibes, and of course, ferry rides that make you feel like you’re starring in your own indie travel film.
A ferry ride, by the way, is nonnegotiable when you’re in the Puget Sound region. But take note, not all ferries are created equal. Some require reservations, and if you skip that step, you’ll have more time to contemplate your life choices than you ever wanted, aka hours of waiting. Luckily, the Orcas Island ferry from Anacortes takes reservations, and we were not about to risk it.
Reservations drop in three thrilling tiers: two months, two weeks, and two days before your sailing date, all at the ungodly hour of 7 AM PST. So naturally, Kira and I did what any responsible adults would do: set multiple alarms, jumped on a call from bed while praying to the ferry gods. By some miracle, we scored our Tier 2 tickets.
Tilly loves ferry rides. Like, ears-flapping, tail-wagging, full-body-joy kind of love. Washington State Ferries allow dogs on the upper deck or in the interior, just not on the seats, even though Tilly would like to formally protest that rule. She thrives in the sea breeze and is the most famous ferry rider on that trip, in her mind at least. People can’t resist that face or those short legs.
We drove on, grabbed our gear, and headed straight to the upper deck for sunshine and views. While spotting whales is common on this route, we were not blessed by the orca gods this time. Still, 10 out of 10 would recommend the experience.
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Day 1: Orcas Island, Art, Treats, and Grandma’s Hotel
We kicked off our trip on Sunday, catching the ferry out of Anacortes and heading straight for Orcas Island. The morning was easy, the sea was calm, and Tilly was already working her charm on everyone within tail range.
Once we docked, we headed into Eastsound for lunch and a little exploring. Here’s a pro tip: check restaurant hours before you go. Many island restaurants run on “non-tourist time,” which means you’ll find a whole lot of “Closed Mondays” or “Open 11:17 to 3:42” situations.
We grabbed lunch at The Lower Tavern, which had a solid variety of food and a dog-friendly porch complete with water bowls for furry guests. The people-watching was excellent, the burgers were better, and Tilly was already acting like she owned the joint.
After lunch, we wandered through town, popping into local shops, and let me tell you, Eastsound might be the most dog-friendly town on the planet. Nearly every store welcomed Tilly with open arms and free treats. Now she expects snacks at every checkout line. Thanks, Orcas.
Two must-visit stops in Eastsound:
From there, we drove to the famous Orcas Island Pottery, a total must-see. Dogs aren’t allowed inside, but the shaded parking lot was breezy, and Tilly was ready for her post-ferry nap anyway. The property itself feels like something straight out of a fairy tale. You follow a small path that opens into a pottery wonderland overlooking the water, tables full of handmade art, little garden sheds, and a whimsical house that looks like it was decorated by an artistic sea witch. It’s one of those places that just feels magical. We were so caught up in looking at all the beautiful pottery that we didn’t stop to take a picture – these are from their website!
After a long day, we checked into our home base for the trip, the Historic Orcas Hotel. It’s perched on the hill right next to the ferry terminal, quiet, quaint, and full of old-world charm. Think: your grandma’s house, but with better views and a restaurant.
The hotel’s restaurant is dog-friendly inside and out, which is a huge win, but beware, there’s a resident cat on site. Tilly was deeply offended by its existence.
Bathrooms? Small. Privacy? Questionable. But the cozy charm and thoughtful touches, like a homemade dog treat, water and food bowls, and a blanket for Tilly’s sleepy time, made up for it.
We kicked off Day 2 by hopping back on the ferry, free for island-hopping walk-ons and car-free travelers, and made our way to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island. This ferry ride, however, would change all ferry rides forever for our Tilly girl. The captain blew the horn so many times that by the time we got off, all dogs were trembling with fear.
This day was all about adventure. We rented Scoot Coupes from Susie’s Mopeds, which might just be the best way to see the island. Picture a tiny open-air car that looks like a cross between a moped and a go-kart. They’re adorable, fun to drive, and yes, dog-friendly.
Before you set out, pack like a pro: bring water, a travel bowl, and lunch for your dog. Humans, you’ll be fine, there are plenty of food stops along the way. Don’t forget treatos, a seatbelt harness, and dog goggles, which are a game changer. Lay down a towel or seat cover because those black vinyl seats heat up fast in the sun.
Susie’s gives you a map and a quick driving lesson before sending you off to explore. We spent the day zipping around the island, beaches, cliffs, lighthouses, lavender farms, and even a llama farm. Dogs aren’t allowed in, but they can supervise from the coupe.
The views were unreal. On a clear day, you can spot whales from the coastline, and we definitely tried, though much like our earlier ferry ride, the whales apparently had better plans.
After returning the coupe, we strolled through downtown Friday Harbor. We ended up at Cease and Desist, a low-key beerhouse tucked away from the main tourist buzz. They don’t have a full kitchen, but there’s a solid snack menu, cold drinks, and even a wall of board games. The perfect combo for killing time before your ferry.
By the time we returned to the ferry that night, Tilly started trembling as soon as we began boarding. We ended up carrying her onto the ferry, my heart breaking a little for her. I loved her love of ferry rides, and it hurts that this trip scared her so much. Here’s to hoping she forgets by the next time we ride.
We wrapped up the night back on Orcas Island, heading to North Beach for sunset. Kira snapped about 400 photos while Tilly dug in the sand and cried dramatically every time Auntie Kira stepped out of leash range. I’m not saying she overdoes it, but Kira takes more photos per sunset than most wedding photographers.
Our final day was the classic last-day combo of lazy and nostalgic. We slept in, had a late breakfast at the hotel which hit the spot, then drove up to Mount Constitution.
It’s a short uphill walk from the parking lot to the viewpoint and absolutely worth it. On a clear day, you can see the Rosario Strait, Mount Baker, and what feels like half the PNW. It’s the perfect picnic or photo spot, and bonus points if you bring snacks.
From there, we made one last stop at North Beach for a nap in the sun, a quick splash in the water, Tilly not me, and one final round of sand zoomies. Then it was time to pack up, grab our ferry reservation, and head home.
And speaking of, make a reservation for your return trip. Nothing kills the post-vacation buzz like sitting in a ferry line watching everyone else get on. If you’re like me, once go-home mode kicks in, it’s go time. Anything slowing me down is just an obstacle in my personal Amazing Race.
The San Juan Islands are everything we love about the PNW, cozy towns, salty air, great food, happy dogs, and sunsets that make you forget about your email inbox. Whether you’re traveling with your best friend, your dog, or both, the San Juans are the kind of trip that fills your camera roll and your soul.
If You Go: Quick Recap
Getting There:
Ferries to the San Juan Islands depart from Anacortes, WA. You can book your vehicle reservation here. Reservations open in three waves:
All tiers open at 7:00 AM PST, so set those alarms and maybe grab a breakfast burrito for moral support!
Dog Policy on Ferries:
Dogs are allowed on the upper outside decks and in the interior passenger areas as long as they stay leashed and off the seats. Bring water, waste bags, and your dog’s patience, especially if your captain is horn-happy.
Where to Stay:
Historic Orcas Hotel Charming, historic, and right by the ferry terminal. Great food, small rooms, zero privacy, and 100 percent character.
Many local Airbnbs and lodges on both Orcas and San Juan Islands welcome dogs, just double-check pet fees and other policies before booking.
Dog-Friendly Stops:
Must-See Highlights:
The San Juans are pure PNW magic, equal parts chill, charming, and adventure-ready. Whether you’re ferry-hopping, beach-combing, or just trying to keep your dog from honking back at the captain, it’s the perfect spot for your next getaway.
** Written by Emily & Approved by Tilly **
